A growing number of restaurants are ‘getting it right’, and this hefty tome provides ample evidence. There aren’t many, however, that tick quite as many boxes as Dyletanci. The engaging bistro vibe aside, it’s the manner in which they marry food and drink that really strikes a chord. The cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk has already been copiously commented upon elsewhere in this issue, but praise too goes in the direction of co-owner Maciej Sondij: under his watch, one of Warsaw’s top wine lists has been amassed, a spectacular work with an emphasis on burgundy. Beyond the traditional big boys, a platform, too, has been given to niche producers and Polish vineyards. The result is a selection that is as exciting as it is thoughtful; with the food menu specifically tailored to dance in rhythm with this choice, consider Dyletanci the home of the perfect pairing.

Dyletanci ul. Rozbrat 44A,

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